The first city that we went to was Lanzhou where our friend Emily has been living for the past two years. Apparently Lanzhou is famous for hand-pulled beef noodles as evidenced by the statue celebrating "Lanzhou beef noodles" and their "nutritive" qualities. A small city with only 3 million people, in 1998 Lanzhou had the distinction of being named the most polluted city in the world, yeah. I actually liked Lanzhou, it's in the middle of a deserty sort of area and kind of rises all neon and blinking out of nowhere. I also love Lanzhou because it's the first place we spent time in China and because it's the first place where we ate and ate and ATE. Seriously, after the second day Emily say "Dang, you guys really eat a lot!" Maybe that's why one of the first places she took us was the grocery store?